S.A. Holt Studios

Snuffle Mats, Snuffle Balls, and Snuffle Bins. Almost any object with holes cut into it or manufactured into it can become a Snuffle Item for dogs and cats… and maybe other critters, too. Allow me to explain.

A snuffle mat is a flat backing with holes in it that people tie (double knot) strips of polar-fleece (fleece) onto, and it becomes a food puzzle for their pet, usually a dog or cat. 

-The first is to take a Holee Roller ball (the ones with the hexagonal open areas, that no one really knows what to do with, and they usually just sit in the dog’s toy box,) and tie fleece strips to it (leaving 3 to 4 of the larger holes open so treats can be put in and fall out.)

-The second kind is one that you make solely out of long pieces of fleece, cut strips from the edge towards the middle on both sides, the roll up the long pieces (lengthwise,) and tie the roll in the middle, then fluff out the fleece strips to make a ball. These you can really hide the treats down in, and are great for longer treats.

A snuffle box is a box that people tie strips of fleece into so they face the interior of the bin. This is a real challenge for some dogs to stick their face in past the fleece strips and find the treats.

 

Making your own snuffle items:

I would start with a snuffle mat for both the human and animal’s sake. The snuffle mat is the easiest to make. A lot of the tutorials online use either a plastic or rubber mat as the backing. I don’t like this one bit, as they are difficult or impossible to wash in the washing machine. I came up with using a towel for the backing. I simply cut small holes in the towel, and am able to feed the fleece through as easily as if I were working with a plastic or rubber backing.

I like using about 1 to 1.5 inch by 10 in polar fleece strips for the snuffle mats. I’m not really too terribly precise with cutting these strips. When they vary a little bit, it gives a little bit different feeling to the pets when they dig into the snuffle mat. I wouldn’t go any wider than 2 inches. I prefer to not go that wide. Also, don’t go any smaller than 1 inch, you won’t get good coverage.

Do NOT use t-shirt or other fabric for snuffle mats. I tried several different materials and found that none of them help up or held nearly as well as the polar-fleece did, especially for washing.

Here is my YouTube video for cutting the towel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLgcZagBbsg&t=21s

Here is my YouTube video for making the snuffle mat with the towel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BQHuv1LERE&t=7s

Here is my YouTube video of my dogs using their snuffle mats: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70701SO1_6k

 

I would then recommend making and introducing snuffle balls next. They are just as easy to make as snuffle mats, and my dogs love them! One likes to shake hers, and the other like to roll hers.

I make the fleece strips 1 by 8 inches for snuffle balls, with large Holee Roller balls. I make them smaller and slightly thinner for the smaller balls. If the fleece strips are too long, the treats have a very difficult time making their way out of the snuffle balls and onto the floor. The first one I made I had to cut the strips down once I had them all tied to the ball. The dogs were not impressed with it until I cut the strips down, then they could get the treats and had a blast.

There’s not a YouTube video on making the Holee-Roller snuffle balls.

Here’s a YouTube video of what the ball looks like when it’s completed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrgtgXZK6Wc

This video is from Donna Ewing.

YouTube video for making one of the polar-fleece only snuffle balls: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vN9p5GIvWw&t=5s

This video is from My Furry Family, and she does a great job of instructing how to make this style snuffle ball.

 

Once the pets (and you, the human) have the hang of making and using the snuffle mat and snuffle ball, then you can start getting creative and a little more challenging, and make a snuffle bin. I used a cheap plastic bin I got at the dollar store (it cost a dollar) and I tied a bunch of 1 by 10 inch strips of polar-fleece inside the bin. This was the more difficult one to make, as the space inside the bin got smaller, the more pieces of fleece I tied. It’s not impossible to do, just a bit of a pain in the wrist.  

Snuffle bins can also be used for scent work training, as well as giving treats or meals.

There is not a video on making a snuffle bin.

 

Other uses:

At this point, anything that has holes cut or manufactured into it can be made into a snuffle item for your pet.

There are more uses for a snuffle mat that just that of giving enrichment to a pet.

We use our large snuffle mats as a soft, fluffy barricade so our cat doesn’t escape from out the bottom of the screen door. There’s a gap between the door and the frame (strangely) and I put them down to fill it, just so she doesn’t get any ideas. She’s never escaped, or tried to get outside, but she is a mighty huntress and may try to follow something through the opening. Better safe than sorry for our indoor kitty.

We have friends who have an autistic child, they use the one I made them for texture therapy.

One friend uses hers a her teenage daughter’s bath mat. Okay, in all honesty, the daughter absconded with it.

We have other friends whose older dogs use it as a cushy dog bed, and another who friend whose dog thinks it’s the best shake it around toy ever. He doesn’t like it when they try to stick treats in it. He shakes it out, then takes it into his crate so the humans can’t do that again.

Our cat will also rub and roll around on hers when we put catnip on it. She gets all nipped up, then takes a nap on it.

 

Washing and drying snuffle items:

With our dogs snuffle mats, once they have eaten their meal or treats out of them, I pick them up and throw them in the washing machine. Since they are fleece and towels, I can also toss them in the clothes dryer. I don’t want them destroying them, or trying to nibble on them because they smell like food, so I pick them up when the dogs are done eating.

I’ll also wash the Holee-Roller snuffle ball in the washing machine on cold, but will air dry it. The polar-fleece only snuffle ball, can be untied and washed and dried, then rolled back up, and tied once fully dry.

I have a front loading washing machine, so I’ll be able to wash the snuffle bin on cold, too. I will let it air dry.

Boeuf Bourguignon Without Alcohol
by: Susan Holt

Prep time: 1 1/2 hour
Cook time: 4-5 hours

Peel 15-20 fresh pearl onions (or use a small bag of frozen pearl onions) and set aside in a small bowl (I used fresh)

Place the following into a mixing bowl:

10 carrots cut into about 1 inch chunks
5 stalks of celery, diced
1/4 of a small head of fennel/anise, diced
1 shallot, diced
3 large cloves of garlic, minced

-Transfer mix into a preheated, buttered, large soup/stock pot and sweat until everything but the carrots are translucent. (1 Tbsp butter, 1 Tbsp olive oil needs to come up to temp before adding the veggies.) On my stove, a sweat is between setting 5 and 6 on a scale of “Low” to 10.
-Once cooked, transfer mix back to the mixing bowl and set aside. Keep it close as you’ll add items to it until everything is ready to go into the stock.

Add the pearl onions to the mixing bowl

Clean and quarter 1 small box/package of white (or button) mushrooms
-Add a little more butter to the bottom of the hot pot, and turn the heat up to med-hi (8 on my stove). Saute the mushrooms for about 3 minutes, or until they turn a little golden.
-Remove them from the pot to the mixing bowl with the aromatics.

3-4 lbs of cubed chuck steak
2 Tbsp parsley flakes
1 tsp thyme
1 tsp marjoram
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp rosemary
2 medium bay leaves
Salt and Pepper to taste
-Brown the meat in the pot. Do not cook it all the way through, just quickly brown the outside.
-I cook the spices in with the meat to open the spices (bloom the flavors), and to season the meat.
-Once the meat is browned, remove it to the mixing bowl with the aromatics and mushrooms.

Decrease the heat down to med-med-hi (6 on my stove), and add in 1/2 can tomato sauce
-Cook until it bubbles and turns a little darker.

Add to the cooked tomato sauce:
1 box of Beef Broth (I used Swanson’s because I didn’t have any homemade in the freezer)
1/3 cup pomegranate juice
1 1/2 – 2 Tbsp red wine Vinegar
1 1/2 – 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

-Add everything from the mixing bowl into the pot of liquid. It will look like there’s not enough liquid, but there is, especially once the liquid from the veggies and meat go back into the pot.
-Bring the pot back up to a boil.
-Once it boils, turn it down to a simmer (2.2-ish on my stove), and simmer for several hours (4-6).
-I made this around lunch time so it can simmer all afternoon and be ready for dinner.
-This can also be prepped the day before and put in a crock pot to cook all day.

At the very end, you may want to taste it, adjust the seasoning (salt & pepper), spices, pomegranate juice, and the vinegars to make it taste a little more like red wine. This is done directly before serving and is done to your taste.
-I added half as much pomegranate juice, red wine vinegar, balsamic vinegar, worcestershire sauce, thyme, marjoram, and 1/8 tsp of cayenne pepper at the very end just before serving.

Serve with a nice crusty bread, sliced, ad buttered.

—

Here is the full ingredient list:

15-20 fresh pearl onions
10 carrots cut into about 1 inch chunks
5 stalks of celery, diced
1/4 of a small head of fennel/anise, diced
1 shallot, diced
3 large cloves of garlic, minced
1 small package of white (or button) mushrooms
3-4 lbs of cubed chuck steak
2 Tbsp parsley flakes
1 tsp thyme (+ additional just before serving)
1 tsp marjoram (+ additional just before serving)
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp rosemary
2 medium bay leaves
Salt and Pepper to taste
1/2 can tomato sauce
1 box (or 2 to 3 cans) of Beef Broth (I used Swanson’s because I didn’t have any homemade in the freezer)
1/3 cup pomegranate juice (+ additional just before serving)
1 1/2 – 2 Tbsp red wine Vinegar (+ additional just before serving)
1 1/2 – 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar (+ additional just before serving)
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce (+ additional just before serving)
1/8 tsp cayenne (just before serving)

—

I created this recipe with my husband because I am allergic to alcohol, and it’s the one thing I really miss being able to eat. We did a brainstorming session, some research on the internet, and ultimately came up with this delicious stew. It certainly did hit the spot, and now I don’t have to go another 15 years without it.

Enjoy!

Greetings,

As some of you know, I volunteer for a local no-kill animal shelter that adopts out dogs and cats. One of my duties is to be a Volunteer Adoption Counselor (VAC). To become a VAC I needed a lot of training, including a set number of hours at the shelter, several dog behavior classes, and a whole host of trainers making sure I know what I’m talking about when I counsel people who come in to adopt a dog.

One of the things I counsel people on is when they adopt a dog, be it from us or any other shelter, we usually cannot guarantee that dog is potty trained. We have a few dogs that have been in foster with some of our foster families (who are amazing) and know these dogs are potty trained because of their experience with them. However, we get a lot of dogs in who come from rural shelters and might not have lived in a home daily before. Even if a dog is potty trained, sometimes the stress of being in a shelter kennel will undo that training.

Here’s what I counsel people who adopt a dog, any dog, to do when they get home.

Always take the dog out to where you want them to go potty and give them time so sniff, smell all the smells, and pee. Dogs must read their new surroundings with their noses, anywhere they go. They’ve just taken a car ride and may be a bit excited, and it’s known that an excited dog usually has to pee. A dog in any new environment will (usually) urinate to leave a message for other dogs. Dogs urine offers a myriad of information to every other dog that smells it. It tells if the dog is male or female, fertile and ready to make puppies, healthy or ill, and all sorts of other useful information to other dogs.

Once the dog has peed sufficiently, then bring them into the home. Some dogs will make three or four puddles before their bladders are empty enough to go inside to the new environment, so give them a little extra time in the yard if you can.

If you’re unsure if the dog is potty trained, treat them like a puppy learning a new skill. One of my dogs was a five year old rez-dog (a dog who lived on one of the very remote Native American reservations) who we weren’t sure if she had access to be indoors or not. My other dog, a 7 year old, had been in at least two shelters and we didn’t know her background any further than that. I treated them like puppies when it came to potty training just to make sure we didn’t have any accidents in the house, and so they knew where it was okay for them to go potty. Every two hours, yes, every two hours, I gave them the opportunity to go “outside”. I said “outside” in a cheery, excited manor and they happily trotted outside to sniff around and sometimes “go potty”. Every time they went potty I told them “good go potty” so they associated the phrase “go potty” with the action. It took them about a week to really pick it up. It took them about two weeks to run to the back door and indicate they want outside.

Our big dog has only ever had one accident in the house, and it was because we had crated her for a couple hours while out running errands, and she had diarrhea. She was actually sick and needed a trip to the vet for anti-nausea and anti-diarrhea medications. Poor girl!

Our short dog had heartworm when we adopted her, and that can actually affect incontinence in dogs. They had her on prednisone as part of her treatment, which can also make the dog incontinent, so at one point she would go out and pee, then come inside, shake her body, and urine would literally fly out of her bladder. The vet took her off the prednisone immediately, and we tried her on a couple of different incontinence medications until incurin worked. Once she was past all of her heartworm treatment, then incontinence cleared up and fortunately we were able to take her off the medication.

Neither illness in either dog was their fault. I did not hold it against them or punish them for it. Dogs don’t need to be punished. I firmly believe in reward based, positivity training for dogs. Neither dog has had an accident in the house since their treatments, and are happy and healthy.

Will you dog have an accident in the house at some point in their lives? Absolutely! They are living, breathing, peeing, and pooping creatures. Illness and accidents happen (just think of human children, or the last time you had the flu). The key is to not punish them for the accident, but to let them outside immediately, keep an eye on them, and assess their behavior to see if they are sick and need a trip to the vet.

Make sure you have cleaning supplies ready before you adopt a new dog so you’re ready if and when the need arises. Paper towels, trash bags you can tightly tie closed, cleaning solutions for both hard and soft surfaces, mops, scrub brushes, and a scent remover like Nature’s Miracle are musts. A small, in home model of a carpet and upholstery cleaning machine is a huge time saver! A box fan to help circulate the air, dry everything out, and get the smell out of the house is very handy.

To recap, when you adopt a dog and take them home, take them to the yard where you want them to go potty first. Give them time to empty their bladder and/or their bowels then take them inside the house. Then, it’s outside every two hours until the dog starts asking to go out on their own, or you’re certain they have the routine down and won’t go potty in your home. Accidents will happen, some will be cause to take them to the vet, some won’t. You will get to know your dog well enough over time to know when the trip to the vet needs to happen.

Happy adopting!
S

Greetings!

So it happened! My dog naming plan has come to it’s fruition! We have a Rocket and a Groot at the same time at AAWL! “I need that guy’s eye!”
https://aawl.org/pet/34964046
https://aawl.org/pet/35328263

Enjoy,
S

For those of you in the market for a new dog, here are some things to keep in mind when looking for your new buddy. (Since I volunteer at Arizona Animal Welfare League, there is some AAWL specific information in this write up.)

Any pet you adopt is making a lifetime commitment to that pet. You are signing up to care for that pet, take it’s needs into consideration, and do the best you can for that pet for the rest of it’s life. This is something that should not be taken lightly. As someone who volunteers at an animal shelter, I know pets understand they’ve been left behind, given up, and feel the pain of that rejection. Make sure you are ready to take on another living being before adopting a pet. (If you adopt from Arizona Animal Welfare League, they will take the dog or cat back from you at any time for any reason. Once the pet has come through AAWL’s doors, that pet has a lifetime commitment from AAWL. Please don’t take the dog or cat somewhere else to surrender it if you adopted him/her from AAWL. Please take him/her back to them AAWL Thank you.)
www.AAWL.org

1. Do not let the look of a dog turn you off from the attitude of the dog. I see more people walk away from a perfect fit just because the dog doesn’t fit the picture one person in the family has in their head. The dog needs to fit the needs of the family, including all of the other pets and kids, not the aesthetic of one person. Conversely, don’t fall for the look of the dog and insist on adopting a dog that is too much for you and your family to handle, just because it’s cute or pretty.

2. You need to have the time and space for a new dog. Dogs are not like cats, you can’t leave them alone at home over the weekend with a big bowl of food and water, and a litter box. Dogs need exercise, play time, training, and positive affection/attention from their human(s). If you leave for more than a few hours and can’t take your dog with you, they will need to go to a reputable boarding facility, or a pet sitter will need to come to your home.

3. You’ll need to decide if you want a couch potato dog, a walking buddy, a weekend hiking buddy, or a daily long distance running dog. This is very important for the health and well being of both you and your dog.

4. If you live in an apartment or rental house, first see if dogs are allowed, and if there’s a pet deposit and monthly fee, so you can budget appropriately. Also check with your lease or rental manager to see if there are any dog breed and/or size restrictions for your rental.
-If you move, make sure you check with your new rental to see if dogs are allowed there. If they are not, don’t rent a place where you can’t take your dog with you.

5. If you have a roommate, check with your roommate to see if s/he’s okay with having a dog, since s/he’ll be helping you tend to said dog when you’re out of the house (potty breaks, snuggle time, feeding, etc.). If/when you have all those ducks in a row, see if s/he wants to join you to pick out a dog. You both have to be comfortable in the same space with the dog, and the dog has to be comfortable with both of you.

6. You need to budget for a new dog (adoption fee, initial vet visit, dog food, leash, collar, food and water dishes, crate, dog beds, toys, treats, deposit and monthly pet rent for those who rent, etc).
-AAWL’s adoption fees run from $75 up to $475 depending on the dog/puppy, their age, and how long they’ve been at the shelter. The AAWL adoption fee includes the pet being spayed/neutered, micro-chipped, and their vaccinations per their age (puppies and kittens sometimes need a booster from your vet after they’ve been adopted). Vaccinations for dogs at AAWL include Rabies, Distemper/Parvo, and Bordatella (which is for kennel cough). (Note: These adoption fees don’t actually cover the cost of the spay/neuter, microchip, vaccinations, and/or other medical treatments as needed at AAWL. Most of the costs are covered by direct donations.)
-You will need to leave with the dog on a leash and collar, by law. A leash and collar combo at Bebe’s Boutique at the main AAWL shelter will cost you $18, which is less than at a pet store, tags are $5-$10 depending on the style.

7. Other things you should mention to the adoption counselor assisting you:
-If you have a lot of people over to your home often
-If your friends and family bring kids over
-If you’re planning on taking your dog everywhere
-If you’re a first time dog owner
-If you’ve had small, medium, or large dogs in the past
-If you’ve never had a puppy before (as in 8 weeks to 1 year old dog)
-If you can’t take on a dog with medical issues
-If you can’t handle a dog that has jumped the fence
This helps immensely in finding a dog that you will be happy with for the rest of its life.

8. When you take your new dog home, take it immediately where you want it to go potty (the backyard or the puppy park area of the apartment complex). Let the dog have some time in the space to smell everything and possibly go potty. Once the dog goes potty, give them lots of praise and lots of affection. When you’re done, you can take them inside the house. When I get a new dog, it doesn’t matter the age, I like to take them outside every 2 hours for a potty break. It gives them the opportunity to easily learn that’s where they need to go potty, and is a lot less stressful than cleaning up the house. You can always keep the leash on the dog until they are comfortable with the routine of going back into the house after a potty break.

9. Remember, you new dog doesn’t know where it lives yet. Some will figure it out in a couple of days, others may take a few months. At first don’t leave the dog unattended in the yard (for at least 2 weeks). This is for their safety. (I still go outside with my dogs and check that the gate is closed, every time.) There have been dogs adopted that have been taken home and jumped the fence out of panic, or have dashed through an open door, fairly quickly after being adopted. Most of them are recovered with no harm done, but some receive major injuries while out, some do not recover from their injuries or are never found again. (Honestly, all of us at the shelter struggle with hearing this the most.)

10. Every city in the metro-Phoenix-area has leash laws. Keep your dog on it’s leash at all times. This is for the dogs safety. Daily walks on leash will help your dog(s) know his/her neighborhood and how to get back home if they do get out for any reason (thunder storm, fireworks, someone leaving the gate unlatched, etc.) This doesn’t guarantee they’ll find their way back on their own, but it can help.

11. If you want a specific breed of dog, Google that breed and the word “rescue” or “adopt”. This will take you to breed specific rescue web sites. Sometimes shelters get in pure breed dogs, but it’s hit and miss. If you feel you need a pure breed dog, please remember to #AdoptDontShop

12. If you adopt a pet from another shelter, please make sure that pet is spayed or neutered.
-Having your pet altered (spayed or neutered) cuts down on the pet over-population that all of America is struggling with. The good news is that euthanasia rates at high-kill shelters are down in the past decade, but there are still hundreds of thousands of pets that are euthanized for lack of shelter space every year. Getting your pet spayed/neutered is important!
– A pet adopted, is a life saved. Period. If you don’t adopt from AAWL, I’m not going to be mad at you. That just means you found your pet somewhere else. It gives that shelter room to intake another pet and possibly save another life.

I hope this information was helpful.

Greetings!

We’ve made it to the end! Welcome to the Zs!

Here’s section Z from the first list.

Zabbo
Zada
Zahi
Zahira
Zalmora
Zamor
Zanella
Zanetti
Zaratite
Zaya
Zeal
Zeffyr
Zelu
Zenale
Zeniba
Zenith
Zenobia
Zeolite
Zeppole
Zest
Zesty
Zev
ZigZag
Zillah
Zimbro
Zingey
Zinni
Zither
Zo
Zoia
Zook
Zootsuit
Zorach
Zorn
Zwitser

Here’s section Z from the second list.

Zaba
Zacatecas
Zaire
Zakur
Zambezi
Zambia
Zaminder
Zamora
Zandia
Zanotti
Zanussi
Zapotec
Zar
Zarilla
Zarkava
Zarma
Zavada
Zavier
Zaza
Zearing
Zebu
Zecora
Zeiss
Zellar
Zeller
Zelmar
Zeloy
Zembra
Zendia
Zenner
Zettel
Zeya
Zhukel
Ziegfeld
Ziegfeld Follies
Ziegler
Zifu
Zilant
Zimbabwe
Zimmer
Zindan
Zingle
Zinn
Zip Drive
Zixi
Zizka
Zolfo
Zollie
Zombo
Zoombini
Zoomy
Zuber
Zumbrota
Zupo
Zuttah
Zuvella
Zwingle

I hope you have enjoyed my little list!
S

Greetings!

Here’s section Y from the first list.

Yan
Yanna
Yardley
Yarislav
Yasha
Yashka
Yasmi
Yasuko
Yazoo
Yearn
Yehuddah
Yellow Daffodil
Yellow Jaune
Yellow Ochre
Yellowbeard
Yergen
Yew
Yeya
Yngvar
Yoder
Yolie
Yoma
Yomay
Yonaton
Yonder
Yoplait
Yoptryll
Yorkshire
Yorrik
Young at Heart
Yoxall
Ysa
Ysabet
Yseult (Ee-sult)
Yubaba
Yunnan
Yusef
Yves
Yvonette

Here’s section Y from the second list.

Yabu
Yakut
Yam
Yamil
Yanay
Yancy
Yanda
Yangtze
Yannick
Yar
Yardarn
Yarna
Yavapai
Yawney
Ybanie
Yeldon
Yellowstone
Yemen
Yendi
Yeti
Yett
Yetter
Yinta
Ymir
Yo-Yo
Yoey
Yorick
Yorkana
Yorsh
Yosemite
Yost
Yotam
Yoter
Yousef
Yovani
Yuan
Yucatan
Yucatek
Yunel
Yura
Yurak
Yves Saint Bernard

Enjoy!
S

Greetings!

Here’s section X from the first list.

Xanthiosite
Xanthius
Xanthos
Xenotime
Xeo
Xerxies
Ximena

Here’s section X from the second list.

Xavien
Xi
Xochi

Enjoy!
S

Greetings!

Here’s section W of the first list.

Wad
Waddle
Wagmore
Wahoo
Waine (Way-inn)
Wainwright
Wallaroo
Walnut Kuchen
Walnut Swirl
Walrick
Walsenburg
Waltzing Matilda
Wanette
Warmly
Warwick
Warwickite
Wasilla
Wasta
Watchpoint
Water Baby
Water Fairy
Water Willow
Watercress
Waterfall
Watford
Watkins
Watt
Wayfarer
Wee Baby
Welder
Weldon
Wellesley
Wendarrow
Wendryn
Wenefrid
Wenslydale
Wentliana
Wes-Lee
Wessel
Wessex
Westby
Western
Westmark
Weston Wheel
Weyden
Weye (Way)
Whipple
Whirlwind
Whispering Rain
Whitby
White Chocolate
White Crest
Whitecap
Whitevine
Whittaker
Whittier
Whovian
Whyteshade
Wick
Wickette
Wickstrom
Widgen
Wiggen
Wiggle-Wort
Wilhelm
Willamina
Willem
Willemite
Willett
Wilmington
Wilmot
Windale
Windermere
Windmill
Windsor Red
Winek
Winnimere
Winning
Winslow Homer
Winterberry
Winterbourn
Winthrop
Wisdom
Wistaria
Wister
Witty
Wold
Wollwich
Woobie
Wood Nymph
Wood Sorrel
Woodbine
Woodland
Woodruff
Woodsley
Woofers
Woot
Wordford
Worly
Wrangell
Wrynn
Wyld
Wyllowe (Willow)
Wyn
Wysteria
Wyvern

Here’s section W of the second list.

Waddi
Wadena
Waggytail Puppydog
Waglan
Wagtail
Wahoo
Waldo Butters
Waldron
Walkman
Wallaby
Wallago
Walpiri
Walston
Wanda Maximoff
Warbler
Washboard
Washburn
Washta
Watercress
Waterworks McGillacutty
Wattle
Watto
Watusi
Waverley
Waynewright
Wazner
Weatherly
Weehawken
Weeki
Weever
Welday
Wellman
Wels
Welsh
Wembly
Wendish
Wenona
West Virginia
Westey
Westy
Wexley
Whiff
Whipstitch
Whoop
Wichita
Wickem
Wicker
Wigglebug
Wilkin
Willamine
Willette
Willmar
Willoughby
Wimar
Wimberley
Windage
Windber
Windchime
Windley
Windom
Windu
Windward
Winfall
Winfield
Winford
Winity
Winky
Winsette
Winter Soldier
Wintergreen
Winters
Wintertime
Winx
Wiseton
Witbier
Withem
Wixom
Wizard of Oz
Wobblebug
Womack
Wonder
Woo Doggy
Woodchuck
Woofgang Amadeus Muttzart
Woofie Pants McGoo
Wookiee
Wooly Mammoth
Worthington
Wraggle
Wriggle
Wulo
Wumpth
Wyken
Wynton
Wyoming

Enjoy!
S

Greetings!

Here’s section V from the first list.

Vagus
Vair
Valana
Valarik
Valbjorn
Valdis
Valdisa
Valencay
Valenia
Valens
Valentineite
Valerian
Valgard
Valharic
Valheand
Valiantly
Valin
Valko
Vallson
Valmont
Valora
Valros
Vambrace
Van Der Zee
Vanadium
VanDoorn
Vandyke Brown
Vanilla Frosting
Vanilla Nougat
Varily
Varin
Varnay
Varnini
Varris
Varro
Vasco
Vasilisa
Vauclair
Vauxite
Veblen
Vellichor
Velocity
Velour
Vels
Velva
Velvety
Venaco
Veneas
Venetian Mallow
Venora
Verbena
Verdon
Vermilion
Verna
Vernon
Vernor
Verone
Veronese
Verrocchio
Versal
Vespacia
Veyla
Vicana
Viceroy
Vickers
Victorian
Victory
Vieda
Vienne
Vikan
Viktoria
Vincent van Gogh
Vintage
Violetta
Viridian
Virtuous
VitBe
Vitrina
Viverols
Vivianette
Vivid
Vivid
Vogg
Volta
Volterra
Von
Vonda
Vortex
Vossy
Vost
Vouvant
Vow
Vry
Vulcanite

Here’s section V from the second list.

Vacuna
Vadal
Vaila
Vakia
Valcour
Valentia
Valera
Valkaria
Valkyrie
Valletta
Vallette
Valli
Vallo
Valorum
Vamana
Vanda
Vandeen
Vander
Vanderbilt
Vandy
Vanguard
Vanuatu
Vanutu
VanZant
Varda
Varden
Vardim
Varina
Varna
Varnell
Varney
Varuna
Vaski
Vassa
Vassar
Vasu
Vaszy
Vatu
Vector
Vegga
Vellano
Venda
Vendace
Vendredi
Venerie
Veneto
Venezuela
Venilia
Venlo
Venn
Vensky
Vera Wag
Veracruz
Verbie
Verdel
Verdo
Verette
Verga
Veritas
Vermicelli
Vermouth
Vernay
Vernia
Veronique
Versailles
Versimo
Vesper
Vespucci
Vesta
Vestavia
Vevay
Vezir
Vibrato
Vicco
Vickery
Vidame
Vidette
Vidor
Viga
Viggiani
Vignette
Vikna
Vimba
Vimy
Vincen
Vincentio
Vincenza
Vinita
Vinlan
Vinson
Vinston
Vinton
Virtuoso
Virtus
Visby
Viscount
Viscountess
Vishap
Vishnu
Vivara
Vizzy
Volant
Volga
Volina
Volute
Volvelle
Von Furstenburg
Vonore
Vonski
Vontae
Vontaze
Vorik
Votto
Voyage
Vrana
Vroom

Enjoy!
S